First Part Over

After enjoying being in northern France which was a first for me we decided to move along to Dieppe. It was a 50 mile downwind sail which was very relaxed. Dieppe has a notoriously lumpy entrance which    proved to be the case with the northerly breeze. A lovely busy harbour where we enjoyed some good walks ashore. Being conscious of time and flight deadlines we had to decide whether to go down into the"baie de Seine" to visit the Normandy beaches or make the most of the favourable winds to get further west. We decided to head for Cherbourg leaving a very lumpy entrance late evening to ensure arriving at Cape Barfleur  90 miles away with a fair tide. The tide is awesome and as we were on springs was predicted to be 5 knots. We did not want to arrive early with a fresh NE wind over 5 knots of foul tide. We did at one point ease up on speed and duly arrived as the tide went favourable, at one point we showed 10 knots over the ground.

SOG Plus 10

Cherbourg was a massive harbour with an equally massive marina. The Marina has 250 visitor berths, reasonably priced with excellent facilities. 

Out on the end

We found Cherbourg very attractive with interesting visits to castles and museums. The history of the German occupation is well covered. We also went on one of France's first nuclear subs. A massive piece of machinery.

Roule mountain castle with a great view

A leviathan of the sea

After 3 nights we made the short 24 mile trip to Alderney the most northern of the Channel Islands. Moorings are available in the harbour and there's a great water taxi to save you having to blow up the dingy.

There was a bit of a low key music festival on so we got on the only train on the islands for the shortest slowest train journey ever. About 2 miles across the island to the old quarry which is the reason for the past need for a train. We were though entertained by a jazzy/ folky band and given 3 tumblers of prosecco. Off to the pub for a few beers and tea.

A very old diesel engine.

Next morning was a bouncy but bright warm day which we used to explore the incredible defences built firstly in the Victorian period and latterly by the Germans. Apparently Hitler was pleased with himself at capturing a little piece of the U.K. and was determined not to let it go! Churchill occasionally prodded defences from a safe distance to ensure Adolf used his resources for the pointless task of defending Alderney meaning he did not use them in Normandy!

Intending to leave by the west side of the island and the infamous Swinge we left at 4pm. The Swinge was fast but flat unlike what we had seen in the morning where it was full of breaking over falls.

Down through the Little Russell with the tide meant a fast passage to St PeterPort on Guernsey. A large well organised harbour where we were met by a guy in a dory and shown to a holding pontoon to await the tide to enter the cill locked marina. Led in to a good berth at 11pm where I will be for 4 nights. Colin flew home this morning and I thank him for being great company and great crew. Brian and Eddie arrive on Wednesday for the trip south to Spain, let's hope it's summer weather all the way!

On our way

With a fair forecast Eddie, Colin and I left Eyemouth at 5.30 on Sunday evening. A fair tide took us through the Farne Islands under engine and full main with a light west wind.

                                      Eddie in the Holy Island Sunset

An easy run down with little traffic found us off our planned stop at Whitby by 10 am. We were a bit early for the opening bridge so as the weather was fine we decided to push on to Lowestoft. A fair breeze took us on across the busy area off the Humber and past wind farms off the Wash to the mucky waters off Norfolk. With our pre made meals from Susan seriously scoffed we made into 

Lowestoft 40 hours from Eyemouth. Royal Norfolk marina was great for showers and a chance to stretch our legs. Steak night in Wotherspoons and a few beers was grand.

We planned to leave for the tide about 6 pm so firstly visited the restored Lowestoft trawler the "Mincarlo". We were shown round by an ex fisherman and really enjoyed it. Eddie and Colin very long suffering of my plunge into a sea of nostalgia! The elderly engineer showed us the AK diesels 60 year old 5 cylinder 500 horse power engine which looks as good as new. He must have enjoyed our interest as he asked if we wanted to see it running. It sounded like an orchestra, ticking over at 200rpm and full out at 320!

             Sweet music

More walks another museum and we had done Lowestoft we were off again. Thinking this would be the trickiest part of the trip with the shifting sands of the Thames estuary it was fine. A fair bit of shipping and a few course alterations round banks and wind farms saw us making good speed with 2 knots of tide past Ramsgate. We were washed out of the North Sea and into the English Channel to Dover.

There were no blue skies over the white cliffs but it was a welcome sight after 15hrs on the move.

Dover harbour is very busy with ferries but is well managed with permission required to move anywhere, all done in a very pleasant manner. A nice marina with pleasant staff provided good facilities at a reasonable price. Eddie left us on the train home and Colin and I explored Dover. We had about as bad an Indian meal as I've had at night. Next day bright and breezy! To go or not to go the same question. Forecast blustery SW 2.5 knots of tide and the busy Dover straight to cross, having seen Dover which is much less pretty than anticipated leaving was worth the effort. We left at 2pm to maximise tidal advantage in lovely sunshine and had a great sail of to Cap Griz Nez. A lot of very big and fast ships but we were lucky to get gaps between them. We got into Boulogne at the back of 7 and cooked 4 of the biggest pork chops I've seen. A shore day planned for Saturday and then see what the weather has planned for us.

Better late than never!

I must apologise for the lack of activity since last year. Anyhow despite some good company and some nice places on the west coast it was marred by a season of very poor weather. Aros more has over wintered afloat in Eyemouth which has been great.

The water is a bit mucky after the Autumn rain

Dried out for a scrub on the grid!

So after the bad weather last year on the 15th of May we've decided to turn right for a change and head down the east coast of England then through the channel and make for Spain. I will try to update more often!

A fishing trip

I had visited Shetland in August last year and thought it would be nice to sail up and do a spot of fishing near Muckle Flugga. As I had no firm plans in mind this would be part of the "cruising plan" for 2015.

After an uneventful winter Eddie Joe and I left for the run up the east coast. The weather as anticipated ranged between bad and uncomfortable. This meant an overnight stay in Peterhead before heading to Orkney. We left the blue toon for an overnight run in light winds with the wind freshening as the new day came in. A water leak at the exhaust elbow had to be repaired with epoxy to allow the engine to run. We sailed the last 40 miles at good speed with 30 knots of wind, rain and poor visibility. We were heading for the island of Sanday to spend a night and take in their part in the annual folk festival. We were only a mile away before we saw Sanday and it was quite windy. Wary of running the engine we did with constant checks to see if the epoxy was holding, it did so we got sails down and made in for Kettletoft pier. Sanday does not get many yachts but the pier was comfortable with power and clean toilets and showers nearby. It also has a nice pub a shop and a hotel, the whole package really! We had a Great Northern Diver 10 ft from the boat in the

    Eddie enjoys the white sand beaches of Sanday.

We were made very welcome and participated fully in the “Sanday Soulka” This event happens 4 times a year where the community setup all sorts of entertainment to amuse locals and visitors alike. We toured the island courtesy of Soulka organiser Liz Brown visiting the “sights” of Sanday. This included archaeological digs, heritage centres and artists’ studios.

This site and several others have been uncovered from thousands of years ago and best guess is they are for having hot baths in!

The concert at night was tremendous with several bands playing traditional music. Weather next day was grim so we were happy to stay another day and took part in the whisky tasting and the bowling competition.

The engine repair though temporary was holding and I was tracking down a new part which I would have sent to Lerwick. We had a forecast of SW 4 to 5 occ 6 which was good for a run to Fair Isle so we headed off with a very positive memory of Sanday. A great sail in the Atlantic swell had us at FairIsle in no time. After getting past the cruise ships we got a comfy berth and wandered up to the bird observatory. This is a modern building providing a centre and accommodation for visitors to enjoy the island. http://www.fairislebirdobs.co.uk/  We had a meal and talked to some very nice people learning a bit more about the dedicated almost addicted twitchers! A lovely island which I’d like to explore more of.

    Fair Isle

Aros More tied up in front of The Good Shephard which when a northerly gale is forecast gets winched up a slip for safety

Next day we were off again for Lerwick in a fresh westerly wind. We kept clear of the “rost” at Sumburgh and headed up the east side. The wind died so on went the engine for the last 10 miles lots of bilge checks later we arrived in Lerwick. Next day I got the aluminium part expertly welded by a very helpful  man at Ocean Kinetics. We got showered and laundered at the Lerwick Boat Club which provides great facilities for visitors at reasonable cost.  

Lerwick is a great wee town with great facilities and friendly people.

Eddie had to head away on the ferry so Joe and I headed north to Unst to dangle our tackle for a cod! We went into Baltasound which despite looking a bit grim was very welcoming. We spent a good night chatting to the local Firefighters who were having a beer after their training night. They also told us likely spots to catch some fish. 

Baltasound pier, driech but friendly

Next day up with the tide and we started to fish. It was quite clear the cod were suicidal and we both had several with Joe getting a 22 pounder. Most averaged about 10lb. We tried to catch a Turbot but did not manage. Trying for them was a great respite from pulling big cod from 70 metres! All fish except 2 for the pot wee returned to fight another day. We anchored up in Burra Firth right at the top of Unst. A bonny spot indeed. After a bit more fishing next day and back to Baltasound to meet Colin and Davy who were coming up to sample the cod fishing. Joe and I played it low quay waiting to see how they fared pulling them form the deep! Colin had a 15lb Coalfish right away then started to get fish after fish. We took it in turns to fish which was good on the arms. Anchoring again and a mega fish n chips tea was enjoyed in lovely surroundings. 

Biggest of all Joes 22 pounder

Colin's monster Coallie

Davy said that would do him nicely

Even I got one

Muckle Flugga the most northerly point of the UK 

Ready for frying!

The weather forecast was looking a bit grim so we headed down the west of Unst through Blue Mull Sound against a growing foul tide and into Mid Yell. The pilot book suggested shops, pub and leisure centre. We hoped for a meal ashore but I’m afraid the pub had no food so Fray Bentos prevailed! With the forecast giving 9s we made a sprint down to Lerwick and enjoyed bus trips to Sumburgh and some good fiddle music. 

The crew head off on the bus to Sumburgh

The lads went off on the ferry leaving me to chill and do some little jobs before Eddie and Brian arrive for the trip west.

Completing the Circle

Apologies for my very delayed final entry but better late than never.

After being in Aero for a few days due to fresh winds we headed north to Svendborg which was a nice sizeable town with a lovely marina and lots of old ships around. After one night we headed out the beautiful channel which had some very nice and expensive holiday homes. The wind was light and the weather warm as we rounded the north of the island of Langeland and across the Grosser Belt. The chart showed a small island called Omoe and a small harbour at the north end. The Baltic pilot gives very basic information and of course cant show every harbour so even though it was quite a shallow approach we slowly made into a small harbour with some post berths which were full and a good fishing harbour. As in most places we were made welcome and tied up in a very comfy berth alongside. It was a gem of a place and we enjoyed a long evening walk. I had a swim as Susan made some excuse! I braced myself for the cold but it was quite warm and very pleasant.

 Svendborg

 Thatched hideaway cottage

 Baltic Whale Maybe



Next day sad to leave Omoe we headed east through more bridges to a tiny post berth in Vordingborg in the Storstroem on the south coast of the isalnd of Sjaelland. We headed into town and found a festival in full swing. Lots of live music and all ages loining in the fun. Not wanting to overdose on fun we headed back about 10pm as the noise boomed away in the background.

Still heading east we pondered if it was possible to leave the Stoerstrom by the north channel. This was mentined in the pilot book as being only suitable in very settled weather as it goes out in a very tight channel 4 miles offshore and is supposed to be dredged to 2.2metres depth. We decided to do it in the light westerly which took us through very tight turns and under bridges with 20m airdraft. I had been under 19m bridges in Norway so I put Susan on the helm to watch her face as the mast looks like it will never fit under! She fretted but kept going ( unlike my brakes on napproach in Norway) The channel out to sea was very busy with yachts which gave me confidence but the sounder at times showed only a spare .3m under the keel and we could clearly see the bottom for much of the way. Glad to be in deeper water we made for Roedvig and tied up again alongside in a busy wee fishing harbour. the weather was due to be grim so we stayed 2 nights and it poured with rain on the second day.

   Must rain a lot in Roedvig

Weather changed and it became very hot. We thought we would head over to Malmo in Sweden and sus it out for a visit with our daughter who was due in Copenhagen in a few days time. We headed into a marina on the southern outskirts of Malmo under the famous "bridge" again. A bus into town we checked out the central dock marina for a future visit.

Next day back over to Demark and Draegor only 8 miles south of Copenhagen and 2 miles south of the airport. We had a few days so hired bikes and cycled around in the increasing read roastind temperatures. Lynda arrived for her whistlestop cruise so we headed over to central Malmo and tied up in a good example of a dockland marina. It was though boiling hot with no air. The old boat hook fell apart while tying up and I left my phone sitting on ndeck which got fried in the sun. Susan and Lynda went shopping and I potterd doing jobs here and there. I did a steak dinner when it bwas showing 35 degrees in the cabin! Off to Copenhagen next day and found a berth in Langeline marina which was bows to after tying onto a  stern  buoy. Nprobs to the slick crew(and the flat calm). A nice marina witha pleasant 15min walk to the center of town. We did the tourist thing though it was very hot to wander all day.





Malmo Dockland Marina




A bit tricky them pullpits!





Denmarks unremarkable number one tourist attraction, the mermaid that is





Cheers Lynd

Well all good things end and it was sad to see Lynda away after her 3 night stop  and sad again when Susan flew home next day. However it wasnt quite over yet as Peter Eddie and George flew out to do the journey home. They arrived in the still hot sunshine on Friday and spent Saturday looking round the city including a train journey to Malmo to enjoy a couple of £7.50 Innes and Gunn beers in a Scottish pub, very nice they wee too.

We headed off on Sunday morning into the Kattegat ending up doing 80 miles to Grenna as our intended stop of Gillelege was too close and would have meant a lunchtime arrival as opposed to out near dark one. 

Onwards next day to the entrance of the Limfjord at Hals for a nice meal and shower in the busy harbour. Ever conscious of the job in hand we pushed on next day through the lifting bridges at Alborg (Denmarks 3rd city) and tied up in a very tight but nice harbour of Loegstoer. The Limfjord is a good shortcut across Denmark in sheltered but very shallow channels. It is though well marked and well worth doing. Pushing on next day to the west end town of Lemvig where we ate out and had probably the best meal of my whole trip. 

We were aware that the wind was to go light and southerly on the Friday and Saturday then being fresh from the west Sunday and Monday. This looked our best window to go so we set off passing Thyboron and into the North sea at 10.00 Friday morning. We got along with some sailing some motoring and some motor sailing for 2 days. The North sea motion made cooking interesting but do-able. We took a course to a point about 25 miles south of the Rhumb line by Sunday so as to account for the westerly wind shift. As predicted the wind went more SW but we managed to sail and motor sail with up to 30knts. The motion was a bit lumpy and tea was a sandwich free for all that night. The first land we saw were the Cheviot hills and the longstone light away in the distance. As we closed the land its a first that Ive seen the lights of Berwick to the Bass rock at the same time. The worst weather or most frustrating was rounding Fidra to 25 knts bang on the nose which meant a real slog for the last 18 miles. We did though tie up at 0700 on Monday morning. All fit and well we had a mega breakfast and went home to sleep.

A great trip lasting 10 weeks and over 2000 miles. Very pleasant well managed countries with excellent facillities which made life very pleasant and simple. I feel I missed a trick by not leaving the boat there over the winter which would allow more of the Baltic for next year but hey, its only a 3 day sail away!           



German coastal wanderings

Jack and Ian arrived on Monday night as planned so we left Warnermuende next morning with only a rough plan in mind. Having initially intended to go back east the wind was not looking good for that with easterlies for a few days then westerlies. We tried to lay a course for Gedser in Denmark but the light wind had too much north so we headed along the coast a short way to Kuehlungsborn and had a quiet night in the marina. 

A better wind and fine weather next day took us up to Burg on Fehmarn. A busy wee harbour but we got squeezed in and enjoyed a trip ashore for a beer. Another submarine here but we did not go aboard for a visit. I did tho manage to get my Calor propane cylinder recharged for half the cost of a replacement at home. 

Fine weather again took us under the bridge an on a short way to Heiligenhafen. Another interesting town with a busy harbour and marina. As  everywhere facilities are excellent and put our at home to shame.

        

Jack and Ian enjoy the Baltic sunshine

We had been told about Kiel week which is a huge sailing event which ends with a parade of sail on the Saturday which I was told was well worth a look. We headed for Laboe in the Kieler Foerde so we would be well placed for the parade next morning.

I don't think I ever saw so many boats in my life. There was every kind of pleasure boat, tall ships, steamships as far as the eye could see.

 The Big Parade

We were heading out slowly in amongst loads of boats and as you can see by the sky a massive thunderstorm eventually reduced visibility down to about 100 yards at the worst of it. It took a bit of teamwork watching radar AIS and window wiping (about the only time Ive used he inside helm)   to get us out safely but with slow speed by all vessels it was fine.

We headed away north to Marstal on the Danish island of Aero. A very bonny town with loads of nice wee houses and a great tradition of building the Baltic trading vessels. A good sail back next day found us anchored for the first time in Flensburg Foerde. It was very quiet and we enjoyed a mega feed of mince and tatties with carrots and fresh peas bought from the Danish supermarket. They do have good veg with new tatties that the skin falls from. What happened to these ones at home I wonder.

Jack enjoys the houses in Marstal

Next morning we headed the 20 miles or so to Flensburg. We still had a day in hand but decided a day ashore to sort out trains etc would be good. We got a cracking berth right in the town centre and enjoyed good meals ashore and wanderings in the town. We visited the ship museum where a very pleasant well spoken and interesting guy explained all about the steam launch he was rebuilding.

The Steam Engine

Well we all headed off to Hamburg on the excellent value for money and efficient German railway network. Jack and Ian went into the departure lounge and I met Susan before jumping back on the train to Flensburg.

Leaving Flensburg



We stayed another night as its a pleasant interesting town then headed out in sunshine to Soenderborg. A lovely berth alongside the town quay was great. Through the opening bridge next day and into into Alsfjord where we anchored at Lejsbjerg.

This bridge opens every 30 mins! 

Thunder and lightning was impressive.

On next day to Faaborg and into a tight post berth. Gettingt the hang of these now but they are still tricky in a wind! Sometimes getting out is worse than getting in!
Roasting hot with lots of people swimming from Faaborgs new swimming platform.

Were currently over in Aeroeskoebing on Aero again. Its a lovely island with lots of old and interesting buildings.

Nice wee streets

The Kirk

 Wind has been fresh but sun is shining so having some chill out time and some long walks. Intending to start on the way short hopping to Copenhagen tomorrow.  

  

      

Around Ruegen

Davy and Chris arrived on the Wednesday and we enjoyed a bit of time climbing high church towers and going to museums. Friday morning time for Jim and Graeme to leave but they gave us a hand to get out of the tight marina in the breezy conditions. They went with a skip in their step to Hamburg for flights and other adventures.
The new team headed first for fuel and then east from Stralsund under the opening rail bridge. With over 20knts of wind behind us we flew along with only the headsail following well marked routes. the approach to Peenemunde was very tight and very windy but with Chris's diligence navigating and Davy helming we made it into and tied up in Peenemunde harbour/dock.

Stralsund from a high point

Opening on time Stralsund rail bridge

Davy in full concentration mode

 Peenemunde harbour

Peenemunde was a strange little place. The harbour/dock had abandoned old Soviet ships and a submarine which gave the place a bit of a derelict feel. Not all bad though we got onto a nice little pontoon assisted by a very strong and able lady who was painting her boat. She said "tonight iz not good iz big party wiz loud music. Sure enough some kind of festival/rave was kicking off which would last all weekend!

Undeterred we made off for the rocket museum which was overlooking the harbour. It was used to develop, produce and deploy the V1 and V2 rockets which brought terror to England and other cities in Europe. The V1 being short range was launched from mostly France but the V2 being long range was the later preferred option. The rocket only burned for 60 seconds reaching a height of 50 miles before going into a freefall towards its target 200 miles away impacting with 1 ton of explosive at 1800mph. These weapons were very technically complex with very advanced propulsion and guidance systems. This of course meant  after the war there was a scramble between the west and the soviets for the rockets and their engineers. Many were taken to the states where they carried on their work developing space travel and modern missiles. Good or bad, technology is difficult to ignore when its there.

Anyhow enough ranting. It was a very interesting visit though as indeed the lady had predicted it was a very noisy night with boom boom boom being the recurring tune!

 V1 on launchpad

V2 Chris checking it out

We left next morning for Sassnitz on the east side of Ruegen. A guy bumpy trip with the wind never in our favour. The weather brightened though as we approached town. About 2 miles out  call for Aros More came on 16. On responding it was a police vessel who came in for a look. I thought we may be boarded but they only asked where we were from, where we had been, where we were going and crew numbers (more of later).

A lovely high footbridge in Sassnitz

Sassnitz was very pleasant but we headed off round the north of the island in light winds for Vitte in the Hiddensee on the west side. A lovely day with sun and a light wind though a couple of fog banks made for a bit of "peering". Another police boat hovered about then headed off. At one point we put up all sail but after a short while the wind fell away so we left up the main and motored on. After an hour a rib flew up astern with 2 officers on board. I though we were being boarded but no they stayed 5 yards from us. After having bought a motorsailing cone specifically for the trip to my eternal damnation I had forgotten to put it up. Never used in UK but I apologised for my crime and after I immediately got it out he said you must put up now. I did this and their mood was more friendly wishing us a nice stay in Germany.

Into the Hiddensee we tied up in post moorings in the lovely wee town of Vitte. A bit like the Channel islands with few cars, horse buses, and lots of people cycling in the sun. As Auto the pilot had stopped again we took out the drive motor and as suspected the brushes were stuck. There was plenty wear left on them so in it went and "Auto" is good again.           

   

Vitte in the sun

A bonny wee harbour

We had over 50 miles to go from Vitte to Wernemunde so rather than go against a west wind we opted for a night trip when the wind was to be light and favourable. A lovely night made for a pleasant though always tiring trip. With sunsets and sunrises to keep us interested.

A new day

 A few ships about but mostly further out in the shipping lanes. Yet another police boat about, where do they get all the money to run these quite substantial small ships. On approaching Wernemunde Rostock 4 ferries, a cruise ship, a cargo ship and us all heading in at the same time. We hung back as the parade went by. We entered Wernemunde hoping to tie up in the main Alter Strom town centre but this was full and at 6am one doesn't like to raft alongside. We made round for the huge Hohe Dune marina complex. Good choice as although posts there is plenty room. Facilities are great with shower suites, free electricity which does not trip out and good wifi all  at a very reasonable price. Davy made a good breakfast and we turned in or an hour. Just as I got up yes you guessed 2 police officers arrived. I asked them on board but they just wanted to see our passports and ask general questions. They were quite welcoming and friendly though. Im certain we had been seen on AIS and they wanted to check us out so we could be removed from there vessel of interest list. In over a 1000miles we had never had any such interest. I have only though seen 2 UK registered boats so I guess we are unusual. Maybe I just look dodgy or maybe the inherent German efficiency, I prefer the latter as it belays my rising paranoia!  We spent the last day taking in the town which was busy with cruise ship visitors.

Indiana Jones AKA Chris enjoys a last beer

 

Chris and Davy headed off to Hamburg and Ive been pottering doing wee jobs here and there. The weather has not been so good with over 30knts wind at times.  I have to say a big thanks to Jessica from the marina office, very kind girl who has very good English who showed me how to work everything(didnt fancy another 4 hour laundry). Look forward to Jack and Ian Meechan arriving Monday night when the weather is due to improve.